On the Way to New Mexico

Empty roads, giant elk, and posting reels in the dark.

Leaving Phoenix, we had two choices: backtrack to Holbrook (where we’d been at the ranch) or take a brand-new road that had… well… nothing down it. Naturally, I picked the road with nothing.

It was after lunch, so I knew we wouldn’t make it even halfway to New Mexico that day, but we drove on anyway. The road wound its way up through mountain ranges and tall pine forests—absolutely beautiful, but I knew it wouldn’t last. By late afternoon, we still had nowhere to stay.

Then I spotted a sign: “Camping and Ranch”. Slammed on the brakes, did a U-turn, and headed straight into the forest. Best decision ever.

We pulled up to the self-pay station to grab a campsite, but the machine was broken. As we drove in to find someone, we were met by a giant elk. I’d never seen one before, and wow—they are huge in person. Totally majestic.

The groundskeeper, a lovely lady with the best welcome smile, told us, “Well, you can stay for free!” Absolute win. We set up camp and soaked in the last rays of the sun filtering through the pines.

The only catch? Almost no internet. Normally, I couldn’t care less—but this particular day, I had to post something for Ariat. Cue me wandering around the forest in pitch-black darkness, phone held high, trying to find a single bar of service. All the while convinced a bear, mountain lion, or another elk was going to appear out of the shadows. Give me Australia’s deadly snakes and spiders any day—at least there, you just get bitten and die slowly. Over here, the wildlife eats you.

Finally, the post went up, and I could breathe. The next morning, I sat by the river with my paints, and it was pure bliss.